Thursday, August 20, 2009

Land of cowbells and rosti

We have taken Alex's old car (the Duke), which is now his dad's, across the English Channel on the ferry and are doing a ticki tour for a few weeks. Surprisingly, driving on the right with a right hand drive car isn't that difficult, I think it is actually easier than driving a left hand drive on the right (which we did in the States and I found difficult to keep in the correct lane!).

We made a whistlestop tour to Rotterdam to see Trina who had just moved into her new flat. She took us out to dinner beside a lake and two obligatory windmills so that we felt cultured! The next morning Trina had her first day with the kids at school and so left early with specific arrangements for us to leave the key in an envelope in the hallway when leaving her flat. We had a leisurely morning in no rush until we realised that the girl living upstairs who uses the same hallway had put the deadlock on the main door which we didn't have a key for... oh dear, we were either stuck in the flat until Trina came home that evening or we had to scale the 3m high back wall of her garden and then hope there was an escape route that way. Then it started raining. We went for the latter option even though it had its risks - neighbours might see and we might just land in someone else's enclosed garden on the other side! We used our climbing skills to hoist ourselves up the creeper on the wall, then sat on the top contemplating. There was vacant land covered with stinging nettle on the other side (and a rogaine marker Alex pointed out), and it wasn't clear whether we could get to a road that way. Better out than in we thought and slid down a tree into the nettles (with our random bags of clothes and gear). Luckily we found a walkway around the side of some flats and a door leading one way out (it was locked from the road side). We were ecstatic and walked around the block to post the key and find the car. Trina must have wondered what was going on when she found our note in the flat saying 'Hope we made a clean getaway!'


We had a long drive ahead of us, about 800kms to reach the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. The texts kept coming every time we entered a new country, Belgium, France, Luxembourg, and finally Switzerland. We could have driven through a bit of Germany as well but thought that 6 countries was enough for one day! We arrived in Lucerne that evening, for a leisurely stroll around the lake and old city which is very pretty. We ate kebabs on the waterfront whilst watching old guys playing boules in the square and a whole accordian orchestra complete with yodelling ladies playing in the soundshell. Then it was off to find a place to sleep. By this time the campgrounds were closed for the evening so we were on the look out for a 'free camping spot'... There were heaps of fields of mooing cows with no fences but everywhere we found there seemed to be a farmhouse a little too close for comfort. Eventually we packed our sleeping bags and mats and walked up a track beside a river finding a flat concrete breakwater thing that we rolled our mats on - it seemed a good spot away from the road, but not right in the middle of someone's farm. We actually slept ok, apart from waking up at 3 in the morning when it started drizzling... The moon had come up by then and it was really bright so I was glad we weren't camped in someone's field. At 6am it was fully light, so we quickly packed up our things and headed back to the car - a successful free night!





We ended up spending 5 days hiking around Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen with the 3 peaks - Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau - towering above us. It was pleasant hiking particularly as you can stop at a mountain hotel/refuge along the way for a full meal or just a beer while watching the world go by. We did a couple of via ferratas on the way, one to a peak near the Eiger and the other to a peak called the Swartzhorn, the latter was quite difficult as we were hauling full packs with tent, cooker, sleeping stuff and food with us. The height differences between the valleys and the high level walking tracks is about 1500m which makes for a lot of up and down in one day, we managed 2100m up on the first day... we took a cable car up the second day to save our legs! After spending a few nights in campgrounds in the valleys we spent one night by Bachsee lake in amongst the cows - who kept coming over to quiz us. There we met 4 couchsurfers who had only met the day before, we lent them our cooker as they had managed to turn up with no fuel for theirs, oops! Sitting out in the early morning sun the next day with our breakfast with the Eiger and other snow capped mountains in view was pretty cool. Within half an hour the lake was packed with people who had either caught the cable car up or had stayed in a mountain refuge overnight. We finished our visit to Switzerland with a dinner of Rosti - kind of like a big hashbrown with different toppings. It was actually surprisingly yummy, although despite the potatoes, Alex's one didn't have any other vegies. We tried cooking it from a packet on our little cooker but it just didn't taste the same as in a restaurant.









Knackered after a few days hauling packs, we had an 'easy' day driving over passes into Italy. The roads were amazing, the kind that are used in Top Gear, and Alex had fun trying to be a rally car driver - difficult when the car is full up with gear! We sneaked our way into a glacier grotto, well, we walked up a track and had lunch overlooking the glacier, then realised you could walk on the glacier as its dry (not snow covered) so you can see the crevasses. We climbed down the moraine which wasn't easy in crocs and flip-flops! The grotto is a tourist attraction, dug into the glacier for about 50m. It was pretty cool inside lit up, with some holes to the surface, but it was also a bit scary especially on such a hot day, how does it not just all melt away? A photo from about 15 years ago showed that the glacier has receded a lot recently.





We unexpectedly found an amazing campsite that night on Lake Maggiore (near Lake Como) in Italy. We thought we had no chance in finding a campground as the shores of the lake are very steep. Then around a corner suddenly there was one and we drove up to a terraced campground complete with its own private beach on the lake with sunloungers and a slackline for us to practice our tight rope skills on! It was too good to only stay one night so we stayed another, and visited some of the villages inland as well. They are very tradional and although touristy, they were pretty quiet considering its peak season. We found an old barn for sale with its own swimming hole in the river nearby, perfect for converting into some sort of business we thought.



Reluctantly yesterday we headed off towards the Cote d'Azur for a bit of glitter. It is so incredibly hot here (I reckon about 35 degrees) its not really the weather for sight seeing. Still, we've 'done' Monaco-Monte Carlo this morning, thought it was a bit rundown actually considering it is supposed to be the land of the wealthy, and now we are in Nice for the afternoon. The beaches here make us dream of sitting on Bondi with free waves, sand and space - here the beaches are mostly private (one has to pay for them), pebbly and packed!

3 comments:

  1. and you can add 'poodles' to the beaches in Nice - all in their little jackets with their botoxed owners!

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  2. wow sounds great - I loved that via ferrata on the Rotstock to gain the Eigerglacier...schwarzhorn good too....lauterbrunen is just gorgeous as is Murren (where my kiwi family friends lived for 3 years)...just a sweet sweet spot!!!! Love that Rosti...although bacon & sausage roll this morning will have to do!!!!!!!Getting excited as the launch of my new website: www.sunstoneadventures.com
    goes live in the next week or so! look out for it!!! Where will you be 2nd week of september? We'll be in the dolomites yo if ur around for a climb?!?!?!?

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  3. Any chance of you visiting us in Germany. Give us a call on +49 (0)9131 995527 if you need a bed
    love Mary-Ann and Jan

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